Gardening is fantastic. I myself have a bit of a green thumb. If you are a gardener, I would hazard a guess that you like being outdoors and don’t have a problem with dirt. Maybe you like to go on walks or hikes? Have you considered marrying your two loves and trying wild plant foraging? This is one of those activities that seems daunting to start… especially in the city or someplace like Arizona that you feel doesn’t have a lot (trust me- I know). But, like any other activity, it is easy to start small and expand later if you do not overcomplicate it.

Today I want to go over 5 basic tools to get and how to take your first steps in foraging. Not comparing brands or getting into recipes… just the basics so you have a starting point.

5 BASIC TOOLS OF THE TRADE

Field Guide

The first thing to buy is a LOCAL field guide. I want to stress this again… LOCAL. There are so many field guides out there and some are great for general reference but for ease AND for safety, it is best to get one that specifically focuses on your local flora. Many plants have look-a-likes that can be dangerous to ingest or handle and there are so many varieties of mushrooms, for example, that a general guide may not be specific enough to cover those found in your area. Additionally, if you are reading a local guide, it will help narrow down what you realistically looking for.

Gloves

This also seems fairly straight forward but you will want a high quality, good fitting pair of gloves. These will help you deal with prickers, stickers, and thorns, but additionally consider that some plants out there can cause skin irritation and even if you are not collecting said toxic plant, your target may be near it. I prefer to stick to lighter, breathable gloves for ease of movement but those do sometimes mean less protection from larger stickers or the cold from snow. Consider when and where you will be foraging and maybe go for something more heavy duty if you will be foraging in the winter or from some angry fruit bearing berry bushes.

A Knife/ Pruning Shears

This category can be big or little. Maybe you are a one knife person, or you like to have some variety and pack a couple. It is definitely a preference thing. I prefer to have a couple and use different tools for different jobs, but I also now live someplace where there is a LOT I can forage for a lot of different purposes. I have a couple favorites. The curved foraging knives that have a metal bristle brush on one end. The come as cheap or as expensive on Amazone as you want, fold for convenience, and the brush can be used to clean dirt off a harvested item. Hori Hori knives are my go-to as it can also double as a trowel, and some have notches for measuring as well. Garden pruning shears are also a huge help when foraging for twigs, branches, bark… you get the point. No matter what sharp, pointy objects you decide on, I would recommend investing in good quality ones earlier in your foraging career than later. They will hold an edge better and keep you from getting frustrated with blunt instruments.

Shovel

Some plants you forage not for what is above the ground, but instead what is below. Tubers, roots, etc all require a bit of digging and using a shovel will save your poor hands even if you are wearing gloves. You are more than happy to lug around a full sized one but I find that folding shovel is more than enough for me in most cases and it is small enough to fit in me backpack.

Foraging/Collection Containers

There are sooooooo many options to choose from for containers to use for foraging and each site you visit will promote a different one. I am going to say that I like to have a variety on me even though it may take a while to build up a collection. Here is why though. Things that will be easily crushed need to go in something that will protect them; wicker baskets can work for this. Items that are maybe muddy or do best staying moist while you are collecting do best in something waxed or a plastic, 5-gallon bucket. If you are collecting mushrooms, I would promote using a mesh bag or something similar so that as you walk, the spores can fall out, spread, and more will regrow in that area. You can also consider smaller bags like ziploc’s, jars, backpacks, foraging aprons, etc. I sewed foraging cloaks (would call it an apron but it has a hood) but take along a couple jars, some plastic bags, a mesh bag for mushrooms, a couple glass vials, some newspaper for wrapping things separately, a Tupperware, my backpack, and a 5 gallon bucket (depending on the trip and season). This is because I collect a variety of items for different purposes and not all of them are edible and some are more fragile than others. I have even used my quiver for sticks instead of arrows since I wasn’t actively using it for archery.

TAKING YOUR FIRST STEPS

Once you have a few tools, here are the first steps I would advise in to get you started.

Find a local foraging group.

This really isn’t necessary but there are a couple reasons I would recommend it. First of all, knowledge is power, and the local foraging community will have tips and tricks about the local plants, where to go, things to look out for etc. Second, you may find a new friend to go foraging with and having someone with you if you are hiking in remote areas is not a bad idea. Having someone more experienced with you when you get started will give you a leg up and it often lessens the anxiety of a new experience if you know someone is there to catch what you may miss or correct a misidentified flower.

Decide on what you are looking for.

Start looking through your guide and decide on what you want to forage for. Are you looking for roots, mushrooms, berries? Maybe herbs for teas? Or maybe you are crafty and looking for natural dyes and bits for alternative arts. I usually look for berries, herbs, and mushrooms but will also press leaves and flowers and collect skulls, bones, feathers, dad insects etc for art and other things. Recently I have gotten interested in natural dyes and pretty much anything can be used for that if you like to experiment with colors and mordants. The point is… the trail is the limit. If you find it overwhelming, it may be easier at the beginning to start with 1 or 2 things you are actively looking for but don’t limit yourself.

Decide on where you will be foraging.

Think about where you want to forage and prepare accordingly. Safety first. If you are more interested in urban foraging (like in Seattle where you can pick berries that grow like weeds in even the most urban trails and parks), think about having reflective gear and the like but you can maybe pack a little lighter. If you are going on a mountain trail, prepare like you would for any other safe hike and consider heavier duty gloves, shoes etc. Mostly I just want you to be prepared and cognizant of where you are. On this note… please do not trespass. I know someone who literally breaks into an area or the train tracks that are blocked off because the mushrooms are everywhere and while the mushrooms are very delicious, I worry about the day that he either gets caught or injured.  

Get your good-looking self, outside to forage, learn, and have fun!

Happy Foraging!

Taylor Lasley

As we hit the middle of February, some of us green thumbs (and aspiring green pinkies!) start looking forward to warmer greener months and what we might like to grow. Maybe we are looking for a visual feast and are picking out our flower varieties. Some of us are looking for a more traditional feast of some home-grown veg. I personally like growing a combination of the two… which is part of what we will be talking about today.

I know I have mentioned companion planting in the past (most recently in our last sustainability article that you can find HERE) and I am pretty sure that Mikaela has brought it up a couple of times as well. Obviously, it is on our minds a LOT and for good reason. There are a lot of other innovative and fantastic methods for growing amazing gardens and crops that I want to talk about soon. Just like I love mixing and matching what we grow, I love mixing and matching and even hybridizing different techniques to match the situation and need. For now, though… let’s focus on just one thing.

Strap in because this may become one of my longest articles (I love planning gardens, food forests etc!). So, let’s look at what it is, some of the pros and cons (both scientific and ethical), some mistakes to avoid, and some good and bad companions.

A Quick-ish Definition

Companion Planting: Noun: The close planting of different plants that enhance each other’s growth or protect each other from pests.

– Oxford Dictionary

So, I could just leave you with the Oxford definition but the reason this is a “Quick-ish” definition is that I wish to add a bit more before we move on. I won’t go into what it can do since that will be covered in our pros, but I do want to clarify this definition more. Companion plant is a form of polyculture (versus monoculture crops where there are fields of just one crop). I also want to point out that companion planting should be for a MUTUAL benefit of both plants or COMMENSAL (beneficial for one and neutral to the other) … otherwise you are just looking at a parasite and a host which doesn’t even sound nice in this context.

Pros: Why We LOVE Companion Planting

I am going to TRY (key word- try) to keep my bullet points brief because this could easily become a novel (actually there ARE books on it). I will try to do this in the other sections as well. Also, I am really going to try sticking with more commonly held beliefs and facts that I can back with science. I will get more into my preferences and my own planning in a future post.

Increased Yields

I am putting this first as it is the biggest recurring benefit in every book, blog, and article I have seen thus far on the subject. The HOW of this varies by the combinations and honestly this is a product of a combination of most of the other points on this list.

Maximizing Space

One of the more obvious ways this maximizes space is that planting different species in the same area means you have to spread out less. Another thing to consider though is that we live in a world that is not flat. I am not going to get into the whole flat world debate right now. What I mean by this is that there is a Y axis peeps! Or for the less mathematically inclined…. There is an up and down, multiple layers, you can build up, OR further under the ground etc. Trellises aren’t a new concept, but you can really expand on this concept in other ways.

Soil Health

Plants have evolved their root systems in different ways; shapes, secretions, and uses vary widely and affect the soil differently. The concept of crop rotation (also a technique I endorse) is partially built around this knowledge. Companion plant allows you to take advantage of this on a micro scale. For example, planting legumes like beans, peas, or clover will help nitrogen to the soil and are an attractive option to plant with Nitrogen greedy plants. Root veggies like carrots or radishes displace soil as they grow and will help prevent it from getting compacted.

Repelling/Attracting Pests

I realize that putting repelling AND attracting pests seems counter intuitive so please hear me out. Certain plants release chemicals and oils that are unattractive to pests. It doesn’t poison them or block them… it just makes the habitat less attractive. An example would be Marigolds (especially French marigold, Tagetes patula– Bonus points that this is an edible variety) releasing Alpha-terthienyl from their roots that helps inhibit the development of some nematode eggs such as the root-knot nematode (Meloidogyne spp.). Additionally, a lot of aromatic herbs contain compounds such as estragole, linalool, eugenol, etc. which is unappealing to taste/smell for many (not all) pests. Just remember that some of those plants need to be around for at least a year to see the results (like the Marigolds). On the flip side, knowing how to use your pest attractants is also useful! For example, I sometimes see Nasturtiums (pretty and edible) listed for managing pests is companion planting. They help but not how some beginners think and can be a negative if used incorrectly. Aphids LOOOOVE them. They are what we call a trap crop/plant and are used as a more attractive host plant, so the Aphids are less likely to bother your more valuable crops.

Attract Beneficial Predators

Not all insects are bad. Ladybugs, Lacewings, Preying Mantids, Hover Flies, Predatory Beetles, Syrphid Flies. The list of good ones is looooong and if you are gardening you are going to have to come to grips with the fact that THERE WILL BE BUGS. So why not try to make a good home for the ones you want? Some plants to attract the good guys are Dill, Anise Hyssop, Blooming Cilantro, Mint, Chamomile, and Bee Balm are known for other reasons (edible, pollinator attractant, etc.) but they are also catnip to a lot of insect predators because of leaf cover, fragrant blossoms, and sometimes even the nectar in a few omnivorous cases. The point is though that many of these predators will help control your pest population. Aphids, Mites, Thrips, Squash Bugs, Cucumber Beetles, Tomato Horn Worms, and Cut Worms better watch their… back? Thorax? Segment?

Attract Pollinators

The last bullet point transitions nicely into POLLINATORS! This is a really hot topic for a lot of people with the whole save the bee movement. Planting attractive plants for a variety of pollinators as companions will help maximize your yield. We do want to attract bees to help propagate our plants but let me throw this thought at you…. We aren’t necessarily primarily looking for that classic black and yellow bee the newbs are thinking of.  Expand your consideration to more native bee species, aculeate wasps, some fly species, ants, butterflies, moths, beetles, bats, and even some birds (hummingbirds duh). Depending on where you live, this list may vary a bit and definitely depending on the plant, some of these pollinators are more relevant.

Repelling Weeds

I will be transparent on this one that I know less science on this point. I do see it is a pro for companion planting if accurate and if this is proven incorrect, I am not losing anything by planting more plants. What I have read is that some plants release chemicals from their roots that can be toxic to weeds. I was having trouble finding the real science to back many of these claims. The most substantiated claim I found was that of Sunflowers since they can release Heliotropin, sesquiterpene lactones, and phenolic acids… the problem is that they can also be harmful to some plants you want as well (the exception being the three sister’s combo we will talk about later). A more useful application, in my opinion, if used correctly is that of ground cover companions in between crops, that block out and outcompete their weed companions.

Provide Shade

Companion planting with taller, more sun hardy plants can offer needed shade in areas where it is lacking. I am from Arizona and often ran into issues with TOO MUCH SUN! It can be just as damaging as not enough.

Living Trellis’

I mentioned before when talking about maximized space, that this style of planting allows you to also maximize your vertical space. This is a bit more specific though. Some plants grow strong upright and others need something to use as a trellis. You can just buy one at the Home Depot or the Tractor Depot… OR you can companion plant. For example, Corn and pole beans work as a fantastic team with the pole beans growing up the stalk of the corn.

Aesthetic

A pro of this type of planting can honestly also just be aesthetic since it often means staggered flowers and fruits for an extended period, so I feel you get a longer period of enjoyment out of your garden.

Saving Time

Don’t you think having less pests and weeds to deal with would save you time?

Polyculture:

This is something we have spoken about in a couple different articles and contexts. We are big on polyculture instead of monoculture farming on an industry level. So why wouldn’t we count this as a pro and support it on a smaller, more local level. You can even take this a step further and turn it all into a food forest (I swear I will be talking about all these other techniques and garden layout styles SOON).

Increased Biodiversity

Companion planting allows you to have more plant biodiversity which will, by extension, attract and support more wildlife biodiversity.

Cons: Things to Consider

I struggled a bit on listing true negatives to companion planting. I can’t find anything particularly damaging or harmful about it (if done correctly) over any other garden planning style. Instead, my list was more like things to consider before jumping in with both feet. Cautionary words maybe?

You may also notice the list is a lot smaller. I have been openly biased more heavily on the PRO side of companion planting, so I decided to play devils advocate and try digging into this a bit more actively. It was still a struggle still struggled. I few other blogs touched on things briefly and will mostly likely have a similar list. There wasn’t much in the way of conclusive studies though (which I will get to) no matter what university or professional journal I turned to. That said, let’s look at what I was able to come up with.

Takes Time to Plan

I actually enjoy this and can sit around for hours planning for hypothetical gardens I may never see. For some though, this may be a drawback. It takes research, planning, knowing your environment/soil/climate, and a clear idea of what your final goal is.

Not All of It Is Supported Scientifically

As I mentioned above… there are not many studies to back a lot of companion planting info out there up. I tried to (and will continue to) use examples that have some more backing. I have a science background, so it makes sense to vet info and if you are telling me to do something, I want to know the how and why. A lack of scientific study doesn’t mean it is all hogwash though. Many of the claims of why certain plants go together have been passed down through the years for a reason. But also because of that you have to consider how the info may have been warped through the years or how it may have varied results in different gardens or climates… which leads into my next point.

Environmental Variables

Temperature, soil moisture, soil pH, sunlight, and nutrient availability all affect plant growth, are variable for each plant, and are constantly changing. Some species are not adapted to live in the same places which might limit things depending on where you are. Also, those variables may hinder some plants, effectiveness.

Not A Cure All

Remember when I mentioned French Marigolds ability to help control root-knot nematodes? Notice I said, “help to control” not “cause root-knot nematode genocide”? That is because companion planting is not going to cause you to have no weeds, no pests and auto-unlock the ability to grow squash the size of your cocker spaniel with no blemishes. It is a tool to help in the garden, not the magic eraser of gardening world chaos.

Not All Plants Are Compatible (ie sunflowers)

This is on here because something to consider is that while companion planting can be a positive, if the incorrect plants are together, you may notice one or more of them suffering.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

PROS. Check. CONS. Check? If you are still reading, I am going to assume you are still interested in companion planting. Further down, I will go over some good and bad companions but first, let’s look at some common mistakes and how to avoid them.

Using Trap Plants Incorrectly

Trap plants attract pests to hopefully keep them off other, more prized crops but they can be more detrimental than helpful if not used correctly. I am going to use Nasturtiums as an example since I mentioned them earlier. They attract aphids. But aphids can take over easily and quickly if left unchecked and the population will outgrow your plant and easily spread to others in the area, negating the good intent of companion planting or even making it worse than it would have been. You still need to kill the aphids. You plant your trap plant and when the pests are drawn to it, you treat the concentrated group of pests however you prefer.

Allelopathic Plant Combos

Some plants are what we call allelopathic, meaning they inhibit the growth of another plant or organism due to a chemical release into its surrounding environment. It usually hinders growth or germination. Some of these only affect certain plants or affect most plants and have just a few exceptions.

• Highly allelopathic plants include perennials like black walnut, rhododendron, sumac, and elderberry.
• More mild ones can be found in garden vegetables like mustards, fennel, sunflowers, and buckwheat.

Clumping Crop Families

Try to avoid large clumps of similar plants in the same family. They tend to attract the same pests and it will just compound the issue. The onion family tends to be an exception since they mostly repel pests but some families to think about breaking up are:

• Brassicas: kale, cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, mustards, radish
• Solanaceae: tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, potatoes
• Cucurbitaceae: cucumbers, melons, zucchini, summer squash, winter squash
• Amaranthaceae/ Chenopodiaceae: chard, beets, spinach, quinoa

Planting Too Close

Think about not only how big your plant starts but how big it will become. If you plant too close, more aggressive growers or larger plants can choke out crops.

Conflicting Maintenance Needs

So, it seems obvious that conflicting needs lead to… conflicts. Duh. But consider the following.

• Water Needs: Some plants need more or less water or drainage. Take this into consideration when picking neighbors. Additionally, remember that plants with deep root systems will “steal” water from veggies and plants with shallower roots like carrots or tomatoes. This can be mitigated to some extent by keeping soil consistently moist, using mulches, and utilizing soaker hoses and/or drip irrigation.
• Soil Needs: This is where it is good to know what type of soil you have and what your plants prefer. Without completely replacing soil, it is difficult to make huge changes to it and even harder to have a huge difference between multiple chunks in close proximity. Plants will be unhappy in the wrong soil textures or pH so do some research before hand to help you decide what to grow.
• Nutrient Competition: some plants need a LOT of nutrients in the soil for growth and then to fruit. Avoid neighbors that are less aggressive like herbs or spinach. You can consider ones that need little nutrients and/or put some back into the soil, like legumes. Additionally, don’t be afraid to add nutrients to the soil if you have poor soil. Composting or slow-release fertilizers are always an option.
• Planting Style: One article I read on “Epic Gardening” had a fantastic example of what to avoid. “[…] Potatoes need to be hilled to keep their tubers underground. If they were planted next to broccoli, cucumbers, or strawberries, those crops could end up buried or suffering from stem rots due to excess soil mounded up at their base. It would also be logistically difficult to get your shovel or hoe into the space to mound up the soil around the potato plants.”

Overshading Companions

While some plant combos benefit from the taller one giving the shorter one partial shade (i.e. Tomatoes and Lettuce), you need to be cognizant of the fact that there is such a thing as too much cover. Plants need to photosynthesize which means that they need light. If you let your smaller plants, be completely overshadowed, they will suffer. You can help avoid this by trellising anything that vines and paying attention to when and where the sun hits your garden to better plan where to put your more (or less) sun greedy residents.

Incorrect Timing

Think about how fast things grow. For example, if you want a plant to be on a live trellis like corn, the corn needs to be established a couple of weeks before you maybe transplant instead of location seed your cucumbers. And some plants aren’t useful at attracting pollinators until they are flowering which takes time.

Wasted Space

This is me talking about trellises again. But honestly! One of the biggest benefits of companion planting is maximizing space so why wouldn’t you trellis if you can? On a slightly different note, this is also about timing because you can think about the fact that while some plants are smaller (before they grow up), there is a lot of unused space in between that you can grow quick crop in and harvest it before it is an issue. For example, while tomatoes are young, you can grow radishes or lettuce and harvest them before the tomatoes start blocking the sun.

Aggressive Growers

Some plants grow VERY fast and will take over. Mint, Clover, Rosemary, Bambee, Thyme, Bee Balm, Blackberries, and Morning Glories, Asparagus and Rhubarb will quickly take over other plants. Stick to having them in their own separate beds, pots, or contained margins.

Forgetting Ground Cover

Don’t forget your ground cover! They help block weeds, keep soil insulated, keep ground fruits off soil, add cover for beneficial predators, sometimes act as a barrier against certain pests, and help conserve water among other things. Side note… a lot of plants great for this role are edible and also useful as a substitute for grass lawns. Creeping thyme, sweet alyssum, and dichondra are favorites of mine for this reason. Mint would be as well but not with veggies, and it will choke them out.

Mixing Annuals and Perennials

Keep annual and perennial beds separate (though they can be near for benefits) otherwise you will have beds with plants that stay year after year and become woody and established that you have to disturb yearly for your annuals. You are just asking for a mess. If you have a perennial plant and are struggling to find a good companion, think Lavender, Sage, Mint, Rosemary, Rudbeckia and other coneflowers, Yarrow, and Daffodils.  

Weird Shaped or Shapeless Gardens

This is totally up to you but there is a reason that farmers grow crops in rows. It makes it easier to weed, see what is going on with crops and gauge spacing needs.

Good and Bad Combos

By this point, I have thrown a lot info at you, but I have not given you a clear-cut list of what plants you should and should not put together. This is because, as mentioned before, this is not always an exact science. What I would recommend is to start with lists like those found in the farmers almanac, free charts you can find online, your local nursery, or the lists down below, but DO NOT TREAT THESE LIKE GOSPEL. Do some research. Know your climate and soil. Experiment. I have a list of sources at the end of the article but my two favorite I personally love to reference when planning are from Cornell University and the Farmer’s Almanac. Also the lists I have next are by no means exhaustive… there are so many more options and combinations and you might find that some work for you and others do not or that you discover something completely different you need to share.

Good Combos:

• The Three Sisters: Pole Beans, Corn, & Winter Squash. It is so popular that it has a name. The winter squash provides ground cover and the corn acts as a trellis for the beans.
• Cabbages and Aromatic Herbs: cabbages are catnip for pests (trust me). Planting aromatic herbs (like basil or rosemary) in the vicinity will help repel some species.
• Cucumbers, Radishes, and…… Sunflowers: The sunflowers will provide some much-needed shade for the other two and can be used as a trellis for the cucumbers if you pick them before they get too big or if you stake your sunflowers up (not a bad idea regardless). I know sunflowers are allelopathic, but they affect some plants (like pole beans and potatoes) much more heavily. This combo should be one of the least affected.
• Tomatoes, Marigolds, & Basil: I read in some places that basil can help improve growth and flavor of your tomatoes. I couldn’t find scientific documentation of this (just a lot of blogs claiming that there is proof). You will have to try for yourself. What I can tell you is that it is said to repel some insects including mosquitos and be a light antifungal. Marigolds we have established can repel some predacious nematodes. You lose nothing by trying this combo and if it is true then you get more, bigger tomatoes.
• Cucumbers and Nightshade plants: To be more specific, if you plant seedlings rather than seeds of nightshade plants such as tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers near cucumbers, they will benefit from less weeds in their area. Cucumbers are actually allelopathic so they will release cinnamic acid into the soil which will stunt germination but if your neighboring nightshades are already germinated, you get around this pesky issue.
• Crimson Clover and Fruit Bushes (like Blueberry): Clover can take over, but fruit bushes are big enough and hardy enough that this is not an issue. The clover is Nitrogen fixing and will also attract pollinators and then sustain them when your fruit bushes are no longer in bloom.
• Lettuce with Sweet Alyssum and Yarrow: Yarrow is a mellow companion and ideal for most combos but can grow a lot/take over like Dill. In combination with Alyssum though they will attract braconid parasitic wasps that will kill aphids and caterpillars that ravage your Lettuce. The Alyssum can go in and around the Lettuce with Yarrow as an edging crop nearby.
• Marigolds and Alliums: Remember me talking about French Marigolds and how they disrupt nematode life cycles (only really noticeable benefits after a year of having the marigolds there)? They also help with Onion Maggot Flies. Both pests are a hazard to your onion, leek, and chive crops.

Bad Combos:

• Tomatoes and Cabbages: I am specifically putting this here because I have read that tomatoes will repel cabbage moths; they are both heavy feeders so they will compete for nutrients. They are also susceptible to some of the same disease and can pass them back and forth.    
• Plants within a singular plant family. For example:
  • Brassicas: kale, cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, mustards, and radish
  • Solanaceae: tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and potatoes
  • Cucurbitaceae: cucumbers, melons, zucchini, summer squash, and winter squash
  • Amaranthaceae/ Chenopodiaceae: chard, beets, spinach, and quinoa
• Strawberries and members of the Brassicas (Cabbage) family: Strawberries will hinder the growth of your broccoli, cauliflower, collard greens, etc. Strawberry plants can be attractants for snails and slugs which the cabbages are particularly weak to AND they tend to like more acidic soil than cabbages.
• Strawberries and members the Solanaceae family: Potatoes, Tomatoes, Peppers, and Eggplant are susceptible to the disease Verticillium and can pass it to your strawberries.
• Onions and Beans: They need different growing conditions, and the onions are more forgiving so in the incorrect setting, they will easily outgrow and hinder the growth of your beans.
• Cucumbers and Aromatic Herbs: Sage and other aromatic herbs release oils (not contested by anyone) that are said to either hinder growth or change flavor of cucumbers when grown in close proximity. This is one I would like to test because I question its validity, only because different sites say different things.
• Potatoes and Asparagus: Potatoes and asparagus rhizomes occupy the same space so when digging up the potatoes you would damage the perennial asparagus rhizomes.
• Corn and Tomatoes: They are both nutrient greedy and sun loving. They will constantly compete for both and suffer accordingly.
• Carrots and Dill: These are in the same family and so will attract the same pests; carrot flies, spider mites, and aphids. Additionally, the Dill bolts, while they are a great companion for some plants, they will overshade your carrots and compete for root space.
• Sunflowers and Potatoes: I keep saying it… Sunflowers are allelopathic. Potatoes seem to be one of the plants that affect most.
• Blueberries and Veggies: Blueberries like really acidic soil which is usually out of the veggie comfort range.
• Rhubarb and anything low growing: Rhubarb gets HUGE and will block out sun for your shorties.
• Pole Beans and Beets: Bush Beans and Beets are fantastic together due to compatible size and beans adding extra nutrients like Nitrogen to the soil. If they vine though, they can block out much needed sun so the roots stay small and the leaves turn pale.  

If I missed something (I know I missed lots) that you feel is relevant or want to impart some wisdom on the rest of us, please leave a message below! This is meant to be a community and that means sharing information and learning from each other.

Until next time!

Taylor

Some The Sources I Used & Reference

Benefits of Companion Planting (Julian Selemin, reviewed by Jabeen Begum, MD)
https://www.webmd.com/a-to-z-guides/benefits-of-companion-planting#1-2

Epic Gardening (Logan Hailey ) 15 Companion Planting Mistakes to Avoid This Season https://www.epicgardening.com/companion-planting-mistakes/

Epic Gardening (Logan Hailey ) Companion Planting Gone Wrong: 21 Planting Combinations to Avoid https://www.epicgardening.com/plant-combinations-to-avoid/

Companion Planting (Cornell University Cooperative Extension, Chung County)
https://extension.unl.edu/statewide/lincolnmcpherson/Cornell%20Guide%20to%20Companion%20Planting.pdf  

Is Companion Planting Scientific (Jeff Schalau, Associate Agent, Agriculture & Natural Resources University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, Yavapai County)
https://www.cales.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/companionplanting.html

The Myth of Companion Plantings (Linda Chalker-Scott, Washington State Extension)
puyallup.wsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/companion-plantings.pdf

Companion Planting (Robert Beyfuss and Marvin Pritts, Cornell Cooperative Extension)
www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/ecogardening/complant.html

Companion Planting: Basic Concept and Resource (George Kuepper & Mardi Dodson, The National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service)
www.attra.org/attra-pub/complant.html

Better Together: The New Science of “Companion Planting” [Cynthia Nations, Maggie Mah, The University of California Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources (UC ANR)] https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=53468

What is Companion Planting? (Amber Kanuckel, The Farmers Almanac)
https://www.farmersalmanac.com/companion-planting-guide

The Ultimate Companion Planting Guide + Chart (Daniel Sjöberg, founder and CEO of Walden Labs, a certified permaculture designer) https://waldenlabs.com/the-ultimate-companion-planting-guide-chart/#casestudy

Summer is over. Samhain has passed. Leaves are falling and the dark days are approaching. This for me is a time when I feel like my flavor pallet changes for the year. My cravings for crunchy vibrant salads, crisp citrus, and smokey salmon has passed and suddenly I want rich warm soups, hot chili, and crusty bread. After hot days not wanting to be in the kitchen, I suddenly want to fire up my oven and bake like the world is ending

I want food that is rich in flavor, heavy on the spices, and warm enough to combat the damp chill that covers everything. For me, one of the best flavors that screams “Autumn” for me is Cloves. I love pumpkin as much as the next girl, but the sweet warmth of cloves and hint a bitterness has a heavy aroma I need and adds complexity to a lot of my favorite dishes.  

I believe in cooking with intention and purpose, I try to make sure my food has impact and poignancy behind it. After all, this is what I nurture myself and my family with. I have always maintained that food should make you feel something. This means knowing a lot about what you cook with. Today, let’s pay homage to what I consider to be the King of Spices, Syzygium aromaticum. 

Cloves in Science and Medicine: 

Cloves come from the flowers of a tropical evergreen tree in Indonesia. They are a notable ingredient in both Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine and have been used for centuries to help regulate the body. Not only are they dense in antioxidants but they are also high in fiber. Because they are rich in manganese- they are a great tool for regulating blood sugar if you struggle with diabetes. 

Cloves are Antibacterial and can also be used to specifically treat tooth aches as a result of the compound eugenol. Additionally, the eugonal found in cloves is a strong natural anti-inflammatory. It can be ingested in foods and teas, or applied topically as oil in this case. For inflammation specifically, I prefer tea as I haven’t has as much luch with the topical application. 

Cloves act as both an excellent cough suppressant as they help to relax the muscles of the throat. They can be chewed on directly in this case or brewed into tea and mixed with honey. I like to grind them up finely and make losenges with honey. Cloves can also be used to ease nausea, gas, and vomiting. If you’re like my sister and prone to being munched on by bugs- cloves are your best friend as they function as a natural insect repellent; Clove oil diluted in water and popped in a spray bottle works on people, plants, patios and gardens.  

Cloves in History & Mythology: 

The word ‘clove’ comes from the Latin word ‘Clavus’, meaning nail, in reference to their shape. Hailing from Indonesia they we heavily traded in Ancient Rome and China. The spice was so revered in Rome that it became more highly prized than gold. Because at times only the wealthy could afford them, they became heavily associated with prosperity.  

In the 18^th century, it became a custom at Christmas to push cloves into oranges and give them as fragrant gifts for protection and good luck charms for the new year. They were also traditionally used in perfume balls called Pommanders to ward off illness.  

Ancient Egyptians believed that Osiris was buried with cloves to ensure his rebirth and eternal life. Additionally, they were also frequently used as offerings to deities and rituals involving the spirit world. Cloves are also associated directly with Thor, the Norse god of Thunder and Agriculture and the protector of mankind. 

In Magic: 

Cloves are associated with prosperity, abundance, and cleansing. They are masculine and protective in nature, heavily associated with the element of fire and Jupiter.  

You can be grind up and sprinkle them to stop gossip, and burning them is an excellent way to cleanse and bring good luck to your home. They are commonly used as part of banishings, and can be used in conjuntion with rosemary to attract abundance. If you need to reset your space, cloves are your friend.  

Many people still hand orange and clove pomanders in their homes to attract abundance and raise the vibration of their personal space (plus, the smell is invigorating). They can be hung from strings or used to decorate yule trees.  

because of it’s high concentration of manganese, cloves can also be used as an essential oil to help you focus if you struggle to stay grounded and present (ADHD Yo) as well as added to sleep sachets can be used to get more restful and restorative sleep. 

Care and growing of cloves: 

Due to their natural native climate- cloves are not so easy to grow in most of the U.S. however, it is possible to have success in either a controlled greenhouse setting, and limitedly in pots inside. If you want to attempt growing your own the soil should be well draining, fertile, and similar to orchid mix. If the climate is to cool or dry, cloves will not bloom, and even in healthy conditions they may not reach flowering maturity for seven years. They need bright light and require soil temperatures above 75 degrees.

To date, commercially grafting cloves onto other plants has not been successful, and the majority of commercial clove production still comes from Indonesia. Cloves are not considered a begginner plant or easy to culivate and as the fruit requires processing- you’re most likely better off getting your gloves from a grocer or a local herbalist.  

What are some on your favorite things to cook with cloves or use them for? I use them in much of my fall baking as well as in my hommade chai blend, which is super easy to make in a larger batch and divvy out throught the season. Would you be interested in learning how to mke your own chai?

All the best, 

Mikaela. 

Hey BUD-dies!

As Mikaela and I start to dig deeper into the topics of sustainability, food, and gardening something to consider is that while growing your own plants (edible or otherwise) is very fulfilling for your soul (and stomach) … it can be draining on the wallet. That is unless you know how to do so in a more (drumroll please) sustainable way.

One way to keep more green in your wallet but still grow the number of plants in your inventory is to explore different ways of propagation. To the casual and new to plant parenthood, this can seem like an intimidating word being flung around. I am here to tell you that it is easy-peasy.

In the case of plants, propagation literally just means reproduction by natural processes. Plants already want to reproduce so you are just helping things along and the biggest hurdle is knowing how your particular plant likes to get jiggy with it. So let’s go over a couple ways to propagate AND some basic categories of plants that are easily propagated by the different methods.

So let’s start with the biggest, most obvious way to propagate…

SEEDS

When a boy plant part (stigma) likes a girl plant part (pollen from an anther) and gets some help from a buddy (an insect, bat, bird, puff of wind, etc) they can make a seed. This is not a biology class so I am not going to dig further into this BUT I do want to bring up how this information may save you some money and what to beware of. So, to start I want to say there are multiple places you can get seeds and some pros and cons to each.

• Garden stores are a great place to get seeds and they are relatively cheap. You know they are fresher seeds and have a great chance of germinating (sprouting). The packaging is great because it will give you instructions and care as well. The negative is that you are still spending money AND usually they only have basic flowers and crops because they are catering to a majority.
• Online is a mixed bag… you have an insane variety, but you are going to spend more and it is tough in some cases to verify what you are getting (new seeds, old seeds, is it even the correct plant?). I have had some really great successes doing this though.
• Farmers markets have a couple options. Some vendors will actually sell seeds, but you can also just look for interesting fruits to eat and save/plant the seeds. Things to consider though are that you once again can’t really verify what a seed is or if it is any good until you are planting AND this applies to even ones coming out of a fruit. This is because members of the same species can cross pollinate. For example, pumpkin and winter squash are technically the same species so they can cross pollinate. They would still taste fine but their little seed babies would/could grow something weird. Let me tell you- I have STORIES about peppers because I was growing like 40 varieties at one point and they DEFINITLY cross pollinated.
• Save seeds from your food at home. This is staple and one of my favorite methods because you are not spending extra money and you can do so infinitely to continue your garden. The con here is that you are only going to get seeds from what you already have on hand so you are limited to what you are already growing or what you find at the grocery store (an let’s be honest the everyday gardener may not have the resources to grow some of those fancy, exotic, tropical fruits).

As for who and what can be propagated this way…. Anything with seeds! Fruits, bushes, flowers, veggies. Some are harder to actually harvest seeds from and you are better off just buying them unless you are really serious. I do not bother when it comes to herbs or flowers (though a lot will reseed themselves). Fruits (drupes, peppers, tomatoes, etc), melons, and guards are great ones to start with.

So, before I leave this to talk about our next method, I just want to say that even in cases where you are spending money for seeds, it is still cheaper than buying a mature plant. From personal experience, always plant lots of seeds as well because even the most quality ones you get, only a certain percentage will germinate. I also want to point out that even weird crosses are fun.

CLONING

Mwahahahaha…. This is where you get to be the most holistic evil scientist ever…

Cloning sounds complicated and cool when talking to friends and family. In reality though, you are selectively picking parts of plants (sometimes from public settings) like a 5-year-old, ignoring your moms voice in the back of your mind saying, “don’t pick the flowers”, and then hording them in little containers everywhere around the house until they become new plants. Or that might just be me.

We have lots of options for how to clone! Taking cuttings, layering stems, dividing rhizomes or offsets, bud cuttings, and root cuttings to name a few. The hardest part is knowing what method words for your plant. If you know the type of plant you are propagating, it is easy enough to google propagation methods. If you took a piece of a plant out of your neighbor’s front yard under cover of darkness (who me?), you might not have an exact name for the plant but there are some indicators, and you will quickly get a feel for it.

I want to point out that the best time to try any of these methods are going to be during the growing season just like with planting seeds. You will get the best result this way BUT especially with indoor plants, you will still get varied success the rest of the year.

Like I said, there are a lot of options, and it would be a lot to cover all of them in any depth (plus there are different options and ways to tweak each general method) but let me give you an idea of what some of these options are.

Cuttings

This is one of my favorite methods and the first type of cloning I ever attempted. The root of the process is you are taking a cutting or trimming of a plant and roots will grow from it to form its own plant. I find that this is usually my go to with herbaceous, tropical plants. Vining plants in particular; I will find a node (bump where roots would come out, cut right before it, remove the lower leaves, dip the end in a rooting hormone (tons of garden places sell liquid or powdered hormone for this reason so they are encouraging my habits), and plant your new baby into a sterile seed sowing mix. You want to keep these guys in bright indirect light and a moist/humid environment (a cover works great) since they do not have roots to suck up water or nutrients easily yet. Some of my plants root so easily that I just stick them in a vase with water (no hormone or dirt or anything) and wait for roots to appear before I plant them. Pothos, fuschia, and impatiens are great examples of these.

Similar to that, some tropical plants that have long stems on their leaves can be propagated in the same way. Great example of this are African violets and Monstera’s (I do this with mines suckers or tiny offshoot leaves I do not want to take his energy).

If you know your plant species, I recommend a quick google search to see how difficult they are to do cuttings, how deep to plant, where to cut etc until you have a feel for it because there are some differences.

Layering

Once again, not complicated, but layering can be done 2 different ways. Compound layering can be done with anything flexible that you would do a cutting on (like a Pothos vine). You basically can plant (or layer soil over) portions of the vine where there are nodes and encourage root growth from those places and once roots have started, they can be cut apart and planted. You can also do Air layering where you purposefully damage parts of the outer layer of stems and then wrap damp moss/soil around that place, enclosing it with Aluminum foil until roots appear and the plant can be separated. Once again, this method may have slightly different requirements or processes depending on the type of plants, but this is the gist of it.

This is a little involved than taking cuttings BUT it isn’t hard by any means and has less chance of a cutting withering away since it is still getting nutrients from the parent plant. I have had good success using this process with roses in particular with the aid of some rooting hormones. My great uncle raised and bred new crosses of roses and did shows. I loved them and wanted a couple varieties, so this was one method we used to get clones with the most success. Just make sure that once you have roots and you cut your new baby off, you seal the new wood on your old parent plant (Elmers glue works great!) so you do not get pests or diseases in there!

Division

Division is exactly what it sounds like… dividing what is already there. We are only going to talk about 2 types of division.

The first is rhizomes. Some plants (like strawberries) can spread by branches along the ground growing roots into the soil. This can be on the surface but in the case of many plants it can also happen under the soil, and you will see -SURPRISE! – a new plant come up in the parents’ vicinity. You can easily dig up the rhizomes, divide the sections using your fingers (keep the pieces with roots AND leaves_ and replant the babies elsewhere.

Secondly, I will bring up offsets. Some plants like Aloe will have fully re-plantable pups grow around the base of a mother plant. These can be separated and repotted elsewhere. Other plants will need to be cut with a sharp knife to remove them but wait until they have already grown roots or else you may need to go through additional steps to help the babies root.

So you may have noticed I still had more types of propagation listed that I have not touched on. I am not going to get into them today but instead wanted to focus on those that are the easiest to start with and work with a wide variety of plants.

I hope this article knocked your stalks off!

Taylor

Artemisia Vulgaris 

Another Everyday Kitchen Witch or Herbalist Essential. Mugwort or Biboz is a common name for several flowering plants in the Artemisia Genus. In Europe it is most commonly Artemisia Vulgaris or common Mugwort. There is also Artemisia Argyi or Chinese Mugwort used in traditional Chinese Medicine. Artemisia Princeps is also known as ssuk in Korea or Yomogi in Japan. There are several varieties with similar uses, and all are known for their aromatic flowers. There are in total over 500 varieties that all fall within the Daisy family. They are also amazing attractors of bees and butterflies and many other pollinators. 

It is a very prolific plant; native to Europe, Asia, and parts of Africa, though it now grows all over the world. Some unknowing people even treat it as a weed! Other common names include common wormwood, wild wormwood, felon herb, chrysanthemum weed, St. John’s plant, & sailor’s tobacco. Some of these names however, are misnomers as wormwood is a ‘cousin’ of Mugwort but in truth a different plant (artemisia absinthinium). 

In my personal opinion, Mugwort is one of those wonderful few plants gifted to us by the universe; for she is easy to grow and her uses are many. This is probably the primary reason that despite many advances in modern medicine Mugwort is still used today very similarly to how it was in the iron age. 

Medicinal Uses 

From a Medicinal standpoint, Mugwort taken orally can help with digestive problems, irregular menstruation, and high blood pressure. It’s also promoted as a mild sedative. Topically it has been used as an antimicrobial preservative and to calm itching and inflammation. Mixed with Menthol it can also provide relief from itching associated with hypertrophic scars from severe burns (I can attest to this myself. I have a burn scar from a third degree burn that dries out faster than the rest of my skin, burns more easily, and itches constantly. Menthol Mugwort Balm is my friend). Additionally it has anti-coagulant and disinfectant properties that make it very versatile and valuable to the home apothecary. It can be smoked, ingested, or applied topically depending on the need. 

Mugwort has a nerve calming effect that is sometimes used by people trying to quit nicotine. They will temporarily smoke hand rolled cigarettes of herbal blends that include Mugwort to help with withdrawals and cravings. In fact, at one point it was used as a substitute for expensive tobacco (giving rise to the nickname ‘sailors tobacco’). 

Precautions 

Unlike many herbs, which can be taken at any time, Mugwort should not be taken at any point when pregnant as it can cause menstruation and uterine contractions.  

Plants from the Genus Artemisia contain liver toxins that may build up if used in excess. If you use Mugwort regularly, make sure to take breaks of at least a week. For this reason Mugwort should never been given to children or pets.  

NEVER ingest essential oils- this goes double for oils containing Thujone. A single overdose can cause permanent Liver and Kidney Damage. Ingesting the plant is fine- essential oils are NOT the same thing if you are buying a scent profile.  

While I don’t know if it’s possible to have a ‘bad trip’ from Mugwort- those opposed to any mind altering substances should probably steer clear. 

Mugwort in History 

Use of Mugwort date back to the Iron Age when it got its beginnings as a preservative for beer, it also doubled as the crucial bitter note we now use hops for, as well as a culinary herb used to season fish and game dishes. Her culinary uses have been overshadowed however by her cousin wormwood- the psychoactive ingredient in absinthe. One popular theory is that Mugwort’s original association to beer brewing was where the ‘mug’ part of ‘Mugwort’ came from; though a more realistic origin for the name comes from the Old Norse word ‘muggi’ meaning Marsh. It was at one time associated with St. John the Baptiste and people wore Mugwort Wreathes to repel evil spirits.  

Mugwort is high in the chemical thujone, which is a mild intoxicant, and the reason that for a long time Mugwort had a bad reputation for many of its medicinal purposes. However, you’d have to ingest a decent amount of it to really experience any ‘mind altering’ symptoms and the benefits of it far outweigh the side effects. If you’re looking to get intoxicated- it would be easier to drink alcohol than to use Mugwort. It should be mentioned though that Thujone can be absorbed transdermally, so if you’re sensitive to the chemical I would suggest wearing gloves when you handle the plant to minimize your exposure. Mugwort is not a hallucinogen, but its psychoactive properties are real and measurable all the same. It’s more akin to a sedative or relaxant than anything that is going to make you ‘see things’. 

Mugwort and Magic 

Mugwort has strong Lunar ties and is heavily associated with Artemis. In the pagan tradition it is heavily associated with the Earth Element. The Genus Artemisia as a whole is named after the Greek goddess of the moon. 

From a Magical application point, Mugwort is used as both a protective herb as well as a psychically amplifying herb. Mugwort is said to amplify and stimulate lucid dreaming and visualization. Mugwort teas are commonly used in accompaniment to meditation, and divination as they can relax the mind and open the inner eye (I am resisting the urge to say “Use your inner eye to see the future” in a dramatic professor Trelawney like way). Those same psychoactive effects that give it a bad stigma are great for inducing meditative states and are even stronger during sleep. 

It can be sewn into sleep sachets to produce clearer dreams if you are someone who struggles to remember them later.  

You can also burn Mugwort with coals as a divinatory incense. Or, if you like to meditate outside, I will sometimes add it to my fires for the bonus side effect that it repels insects. 

Its also a strong protective plant- traditionally people hung bunches of it by their doors to keep evil away. My favorite smudge is Mugwort (I will be using it to bless our new house before we move this month). Some people will work Mugwort into charms and protective sachets. 

Where to Procure 

You can get Mugwort online, or from many occult shops. Some specialty grocery stores still sell it as a cooking herb. Due to its hardy nature, if you prefer to forage you can find Mugwort growing wild in many parts of Europe and North America- just be careful to get a positive ID. Mugwort looks a LOT like Ragweed; which is not only more or less useless; but if you’re allergic to it like me (and a lot of people are) it’ll make you itch like hell. 

If you are a Seattle native I am partial to Tenzing Momo; they are located in Pike’s Place and you can shop in store, but he’s also a fast shipper. Or if you’re in the Skagit Valley I would highly recommend Good Vibes- He has a small selection of loose herbs you can purchase in addition to an amazing selection of other things.  

Growing

If you decide to take up growing your own (which I will almost always suggest). It is easier to grow from a seedling than to sprout your own. I would say either head to a local nursery or see if someone will give you a cutting as they are very easy to re-root. 

While Mugwort prefers full sun and well draining Rocky soil (it started off as a ditch weed). Its relatively well adaptable and very drought tolerant. For those that live in wetter climates, you can still grow it, but you will want VERY well-draining soil to avoid root rot.  

Personally I would suggest either growing in containers or ensuring you plant it with a root barrier if you are planting in-ground to ensure it doesn’t take over your yard (I did say it was prolific). The bonus to this plant is if you’re someone like me: Its hard to kill. The downside: Its hard to kill.  

It’s a perennial- so if its protected through frosts, it will come back year after year. Bear in mind it will require regular trimmings as it can get up to 6 feet in height when left unattended.  

Containers are great if you want to keep a small plant and trim regularly. Ground planting is better if you want a larger amount. It also makes a great plant to weave into natural borders, fences and trellises as a backdrop for other plants due to its woody stems. It has a soft sage-like fragrance and beautiful flowers.  

You should check before planting though, as its unfortunately classified as an invasive and noxious weed in a few states.  

What are your experiences with Mugwort? We’d love to hear how you use it- or any questions you may have!  

All the best, 

Mikaela 

Hey Garden Guru’s! Let’s talk dirty for a moment….

It’s Spring and even the cooler parts of the world are defrosting and sprouting. Here at the guild home that means we are refreshing our gardens and that means really making sure we have healthy dirt. That is right!

DIRT. SOIL. EARTH. THE (sometimes) BROWN STUFF YOU WALK ON.

Soil really is a living ecosystem and needs to be kept healthy to have a thriving garden. You can either spend money and buy fertilizers and compost and a whole slew of things from the store OR keep reading and find out how to compost at home for an eco-friendly way to boost your garden whether you are on a farm or in urban setting.

WHAT IS COMPOSTING?

So, the short and skinny of it is that composting is you taking scrap organic matter and speeding up its decomposition to give you nutrient rich soil. The more in-depth science-y answer is that it is a controlled, aerobic (needing oxygen) process where microorganisms feed on materials (brown’s, green’s, and water) and digest them down into compost. However, you want to define it, if done correctly, you end up with a dark, crumbly, earthly smelling material that your plants will love.

WHY COMPOST? PROS AND CONS

Let’s talk about why you should compost AND maybe why you shouldn’t. I know I said let’s talk dirty, but I won’t do you dirty. There can be cons and things to look out for when composting and I like to play devils advocate sometimes.

Let’s start with the pros and why we love composting in our own home. The first reason is usually why people start composting in the first place; improvements in soil quality, nutrient density, and structure. Most people who compost have a yard or garden and they are doing this to augment that. Composting is organic, can cause higher yields in crops, and is rather cheap as it uses what you are already throwing away. This brings me to my next pro; it cuts down on waste. This means less trash pickup needed and is also a very eco friendly way to reduce your carbon footprint. Composting also makes for an easy educational tool for your kids. Lastly, composting honestly just makes me feel good like I am doing something to give back to mother nature and allows me to soak in some homesteader vibes even when being stuck in the city.

Next let’s touch on cons. I do want to mention that some of these are worst case OR if you aren’t composting correctly but they do deserve a mention. The reason it looks so big is because I touch on a couple of those fixes. Let’s start with the fact that it does in most cases require an initial investment. This is either in you digging a large hole to compost in or purchasing bins or lumber to build compost boxes. The good news is that if you are a serious green thumb (or want to be), spending the extra money/time up front will pay off in the long run. Next is that the efficiency and quality of your composting depends on multiple factors… but mostly you. It does require some work, knowledge, and monitoring. You need to make sure it is aerated, kept moist, and that the proper types/amounts of materials are included. If you have too much or too little of certain nutrients it can cause smells, slow down the decomposition, or even reduce the effectiveness of the compost. The silver lining to this con is that this is super easy to learn about and some trial error will make you a pro in no time. Also, the whole point is that we will help you know what to compost. Some other things to just consider when thinking about WHERE to compost is that it does require space and at the end of the day you are decomposing organic matter which can cause the spread of disease, be a fire hazard, attract pests (rats, snakes, bugs), look gross or smell bad which is unpleasant for you but can also cause neighbors to complain. It takes some planning on where it is placed and how to keep it covered/contained so that it doesn’t become the neighborhood biohazard eyesore. Lastly, composting isn’t a fix all. You can’t compost every single organic thing (like meat/dairy) and it won’t always provide everything you need to garden (will depend on the already existing soil if anything else is needed).  

HOW TO COMPOST: THE DOES AND DON’TS

There are two main types of composting:

• backyard composting in a bin or pile
• vermicomposting using worms to break down materials

Within those two categories though there limitless variations! Indoor and outdoor options, bins, cages, pits, keyhole gardens, manual, automatic… you get the point. I am NOT going to get into all the types and pros/cons of the different types (maybe in the future?). I am going to do is start with the basics; What backyard bin/pile composting and vermiculture have in common. Most of the process and “Ingredients” for composting are the same regardless of which route you choose to take. You need the following:

Organic Material (Brown’s vs Greens)

We are actually going to break this down into 2 different categories.

1. Browns (Carbon or C rich materials): This would include dry leaves, plant stalks, and twigs that the microorganisms eat. 
2. Greens (Nitrogen or N rich materials): This includes food scraps, grass clippings, and some manures which will help keep the heat in your pile at ideal conditions for material breakdown. 

Ideally we want to have a C:N (Carbon: Nitrogen) ratio of 30:1. This means that you want more Carbon heavy materials than Nitrogen heavy. You do not need to be this precise and start calculating like crazy but it is nice to have some browns and a bit of dirt handy to layer in when you add greens. This will help maintain ratios AND bury the compost that will tend to draw pests.

If your ratios are off here are some things you might see:

• too much Carbon rich browns will not provide enough Nitrogen for microbes to eat, the process will stay cool, and the breakdown will slow. 
• too much Nitrogen rich greens will cause the compost to become slimy and smelly. 
• having too many exposed greens with no cover OR having some non-compostable items such as meat, bones, fish or bread will attract rodents and other pests.

Water (Moisture)

The microbes and worms need the moisture to survive but too much water can turn it into a slimy, stinky mess and have it growing molds, pathogens, or mushrooms. The pile or bin needs to stay moist but not wet or drenched which usually means it needs to stay covered. A tight fitting cover will help maintain steady moisture and has the added benefit of keeping stink in and rodents out. 

I like to check my moisture once a week. 

• if the pile is too dry I will add moisture and turn it (also adding aeration) or else the activity in the pile will slow down. 
• if the pile stinks OR it is wet enough to squeeze moisture out, it is too wet or needs more air circulation. Add more dry brown’s to help absorb the water, turn the pile, and allow some covered ventilation to help evaporate some of the excess
• if the pile is too cool to the touch, add water to the pile or bin as that is also a sign of low moisture. 

Air (Oxygen)

Your pile needs to stay aerated so that the worms and microorganisms have enough Oxygen and the air will help regulate the temperature and moisture of your pile/bin. Having it at the correct temperature/churned will also help kill weed seeds and disease organisms as well as discouraging pests from moving in. If I haven’t had to churn it for my weekly moisture check, I definitely churn it every 2 weeks. You do not want to do so too often no matter how tempting it can be. churning too often can actually slow the process down. 

Time

Here’s the thing… composting takes T-I-M-E (unless you have one of those cool countertop machines). But how much time it takes is up to you and how much effort you want to put in. It could take a couple months to a couple years. The more you make sure conditions are ideal when it comes to C:N balance, moisture, and oxygen the quicker the process will go. Is our pile cold and dry? It will eventually break down but it could take a long, long, loooooooong time. 

Above and beyond all that, here are a few more tips and tricks:

• DO monitor the progress of your compost. it could be quicker or slower to mature. It will have shrunk down, have no visible food  scraps. It should look loose, dark, and crumbly. Sometimes it is necessary to sort out ready from not quite mature compost. 
• DO consider where you are putting the compost. Will it be inside or outside? Most likely you want it away from the house and in the shade to keep it from stinking up or drying out too quickly. The South Carolina Office of Solid Waste Reduction and Recycling has a great pdf that covers how to decide what type of composting would be a good idea based on what you are working with. (https://scdhec.gov/sites/default/files/Library/OR-1705.pdf)
• DO shred, chop, etc. Items broken down will break down quicker. 
• DON’T just use the compost pile as a trash can. There are plenty of things that are NOT good to compost. 
• DON’T assume that it should be composted if you aren’t sure. Look it up! For example, a lot of outdoorsy people know that ash is good for plants and that is why smaller forest fires revitalize forests and lead to a lot of new growth. BUT in composting you do not want a lot of ash. Charcoal ash can contain heavy metals and ash from wood burning stoves in large amounts can raise the pH too much. My point is… RESEARCH!
• DO look up more information. There is a lot out there to find for free online. A couple good resources are:
  • Cornell’s School of Integrative Plant Science
  • The EPA
  • The Institute for Local Self Reliance
  • The North Carolina State Extension

That’s it! That is all it takes. With a little planning and an initial investment you can create a sustainable, feel good project that gives back to your eco footprint, saves waste and money and isn’t expensive or overly work intensive to maintain.

Go make some dirt!

Taylor

I’m so excited to start discussing plants with you. Everybody needs plants in their life. Gardening in and of itself is more Taylor’s thing (I say this because she is far better at it than I am.) BUT I myself love to putz around in the dirt. Whereas Taylor will be focusing more on care of plants, cultivation and propagation; I will be focusing on “what’s this plant, can I eat it, what are it’s uses?” as well as the history, lore, and magic in said plants”-especially herbs-but all plants.

So many modern solutions and fixes still have their roots (haha, roots) in the ancient study of herbology. Humans have been studying and relying on the magic of plants for thousands of years, and there’s a lot of wisdom you can draw from if you’re willing to take the time to learn. And no study of herbology would be complete without first starting with the queen of all herbs. 

The Dew of the Sea: Rosmarinus officinalis, also known as Elf Leaf. 

Throughout the ages Rosemary has been used for not only culinary purposes but medicinal and spiritual ones as well. Its uses are almost endless and steeped in tradition. It’s easy to grow and care for; and it’s almost as good dry as it is fresh. If there is one plant on the planet I will love forever, it is Rosemary. Its one of those plants whos aroma I immediately associate with warmth, peace, and calm; which is apropos considering the over-arching commonalities we’re about to discuss all center around clarity, purification, and love. 

History + Lore:  

Rosemary hails from the Mediterranean and the original myth was that Aphrodite was draped in the magical plant when she rose from the sea born of Uranus’s semen, whilst not the most romantic of stories, being so heavily associated with the goddess of Love’s origin story may play a heavy part in why the plant later became so closely tied with love.  

Culinary, Nutrition, and Medicinal Uses:  

From a culinary standpoint, you really cannot go wrong with this herb. Aside from its amazing flavor and aromatics it is high in anti-oxidants, anti-microbial and is heavily used in anti-inflammatory diets. It can help improve blood circulation, fight free radicals, and some studies are even beginning to show consistent evidence of its ability to help maintain brain function and fight Alzheimer’s (for more info on this see HERE). In older medicinal practices, it was used to improve memory. It can also help lower blood sugar. It is high in Iron and Vitamin B6 and can be taken orally as well as used topically for eczema and skin inflammation. It has also been used historically in skin care to tone skin and reduce redness. Much of Europe also uses the herb to treat indigestion. 

Rosemary can be used to season meat (rosemary is king when it comes to seasoning lamb), baked into breads, steeped into teas, infused into oils, and made into all kinds of balms and tinctures. A more versatile herb you will not find anywhere in the world. From a practical standpoint it can also be used to repel insects; in your garden but also I also like to put a bit into my campfires and the smoke keeps the mosquitos away.  

Symbolism:  

Among other things, rosemary has long been a symbol of love. In ancient times brides traditionally wore a headpiece of Rosemary and even into modern times have been known to include it in their bouquets. It is also typically symbolic of friendship, loyalty, and remembrance- thus is typically one of the plants carried by funeral mourners. It is also commonly used to symbolize the cycle of life from death to the rebirth of Spring. 

Spirituality: 

Rosemary is closely associated with the Third Eye Chakra and Spiritual Clarity. Common uses include smudges used to cleanse and sanctify spaces, inclusion in dream sachets to produce clear dreams and deep sleep, clairvoyant rituals, protection spells, alter representations, healing, memory spells, and (historically) love spells (though I morally don’t support that). Among the many things that make Rosemary the Queen of magical herbs is the fact that Rosemary can be used in mixes to amplify most other forms of magic as well.  

Again, it can be cooked into things or steeped. It can be dried and tucked into wreathes, garlands, protective symbols, or made into sigils. you can burn it, turn it into anointing oils, and use it in your common day to day aroma therapy practices to help focus meditation and mindfulness as well as reduce anxiety. 

Care: 

Rosemary is a hardy little plant, with its woody stems and deep growing roots. It will grow from year to year if maintained well. Since it hails from the sea swept coasts of the Mediterranean she prefers temperatures of 68-86 degrees Fahrenheit with soil temperatures above 65 degrees. If you live somewhere colder I would suggest growing her inside, or in a greenhouse (side note for those who think greenhouses are a pipe-dream: there are some decent sized portable ones on Amazon until we can all be millionaires and afford the Victorian grow house of our dreams). Rosemary is drought tolerant and prefers sandy loamy soil that is well draining as well as full sun. It can survive in mid sun provided you do not over water it. you want to fully let the soil dry out between watering as over watering can lead to root rot.  

Whether you are buying it or growing it (I would encourage you to try growing your own), Rosemary is more than worth it.  

All the best,  

Mikaela